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Date Posted |
Forum
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RE: Rodent repellant
And anothet thing about wild places in Southern Arizona is that in some big ants come and steal bait from mousetraps, nuts and anything, saw them clean out my traps just now hauling entire hazelnuts off!
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mountaintraveler
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11/15/23 01:35pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Rodent repellant
We use bronze wool for some of the openings because plumbing or wiring may need to be replaced.
Also, some holes serve to let the water out in case thete is a leak and to provide ventilation. Need to figure some kind of mesh
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mountaintraveler
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11/15/23 12:58pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Rodent repellant
We use bronze wool for some of the openings because plumbing or wiring may need to be replaced.
I need to seal many holes accessing house battery compartment.
Some genius designed ventilation holes without protective mesh!
I used steel wool on some but others have wires going through, I am afraid to use conductive metal wool.
I neef to survive another 6 days here before I get to town and buy mesh.
Just tried foam pipe insulation smeared with bear spray to plug those holes that got conduits through them, will see if they chew it overnight.
Can not permanently plug all of them as these do ventilation
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mountaintraveler
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11/15/23 12:39pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Rodent repellant
All the tales about peppermint oil and all the mouse repellents based on oils...it just does not work!
I had used tons of it already in Southern Arizona but there is no less rodents trying to invade. They do not care.
Mice, kangaroo rats, pack rats.
Nothing works. My mousetraps are working overtime.
I would setup a diy bucket trap but kangaroo rats jump 9ft high.
They already chewed some wire insulation and other insulation. I finally smeared bear spray all over the wires in their favorite spots today, near house and chassis batteries, as a last resort. But there are so many other wires and tubes they can access! They will go where pure peppermint oil was applied direct.
Sourhern Arizona...no, thanks! Kangaroo rats running up my legs when I try to sit outside! Not looking foward to camp here again, this problem is all over
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mountaintraveler
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11/15/23 12:32pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: 24 feet versus 26' dilemma, have to decide fast
The only time I came close to having collision damage was that one time I tried to stay in public campground, as I mentioned. I swiped a tree which damaged both of my awning bottom support brackets.
So I tried to get them replaced, this is 2012 motorhome, not that old. Turned out that this one biggest RV awning manufacturer does not sell replacements and its not possible to buy them anywhere at all.
They wanted me to replace entire awning which is over a thousand! What scammers.
I bought completely incompatible newer type brackets on amazon and modified, ground down a lot to fit and repainted, problem solved.
Love my 10x10 portable canopy that I can quickly set up anywhere I want, never used built-in canopy. I got 2nd layer for it for 20 bucks for full sun protection, so entire setup cost me 60 bucks.
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mountaintraveler
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11/15/23 11:10am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: How to handle RV house battery? / sparkles flying
As I mentioned there is NOTHING in this motorhone that runs in bypass of battery shut off switch. May be in your RV but not in mine
I know how I can test if there is any current bypassing shut off switch. Can turn the switch off, disconnect negative terminal and see if there are amps between that terminal and ground wire.
Seems like the thread is pointless ad people dont even bother to read what I posted. Yes I did pist battery configuration above, if you bothered to read my messages. Moderator can close the thread.
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mountaintraveler
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11/15/23 11:00am |
Tech Issues
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RE: 24 feet versus 26' dilemma, have to decide fast
By the way I got portable shower with a pump that cost me 25 bucks, and 2 gallon folding bucket that cost me 10 bucks and has multiple uses. It is much lower flow than any RV shower head and I modified it further to get extremely low flow. It can be used inside, outside. I never use built-in showers, too much water loss for boondocking. It does not risk freezing or flooding the RV from water line leak.
I just read on here how someone's microwave got busted and they were quoted $1200 by the RV maker. They got "lucky" finding cheaper one for $500. Small microwave should not cost more than 50 bucks... Now I'm especially afraid to use my microwave, but not that I ever need it and I have A/C power only twice a month when I exercise the generator.
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mountaintraveler
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11/13/23 08:16pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: How to handle RV house battery? / sparkles flying
if both were connected and you were just tightening up the positive then you accidently/unknowingly touched something with the wrench or socket. Even with a load on, if you didn't pull the wire off the terminal, you shouldn't get sparks unless it was so loose when you went to tighten it, it twisted and lost contact for a second.
As I mentioned abive I did not pull it off the terminal.
It was not loose and was a rock solid connection.
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mountaintraveler
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11/13/23 08:06pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: How to handle RV house battery? / sparkles flying
An if there is a mysterious load with shut off switch off (not possible by design of this RV) how to check this with a multimeter?
These are 2 6v batteries in series.
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mountaintraveler
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11/13/23 04:59pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: How to handle RV house battery? / sparkles flying
ALWAYS disconnect the ground lug/wire before touching the positive lug.
That is worth saying again
Always start by disconnecting ground
As to what happened.. Without a video to see how bad the sparks were I can only guess there was a load. perhaps the steps or some other system does not disconnect when you disconnect.. or perhaps you touched something or there was a stray strand of wire you did not see.
Beyond that I can not say more without a video of the event. which I assume you don't have. (I mean why would you?)
I do not have any systems that function off this battery when the switch is off, and it was off.
I double checked and there is nowhere metal wrench could come in contact with any metal, all is insulated there.
I cleaned dust off the batteries and wires earlier with slightly moist rug, lots of dust was there, it all looked dry by the time I worked on terminals, I wonder if remaining moisture could conduct current. Sparks were BAD.
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mountaintraveler
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11/13/23 04:50pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: 24 feet versus 26' dilemma, have to decide fast
mountain ah for the simple life!
Just one look at any RV forum tech section...right now someone here says their onan genset fuel filter got crossthreaded, so Onan are quoting $2400 to replace the entire bottom! That's 6 times more that my entire portable dual fuel generator cost brand new, and I never even need much load.
Lots of fragile, easily damaged, high maintenace stuff.
And places like Onan requre leaving the RV with them for unknown length of time.
Simple, basic is the best.
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mountaintraveler
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11/13/23 01:22pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: How to handle RV house battery? / sparkles flying
The reason I checked on batteries was mouse crunching I heard from that area. There was a nest getting started, cover (which is entry step) perimeter seal chewed and end of one wire conduit chewed, but wire intact. I covered up that wire part with electrical tape before tightening the terminals. Didn't see any other damage from that mouse.
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mountaintraveler
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11/13/23 12:35pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: How to handle RV house battery? / sparkles flying
Either that cable connection was loose and there was something drawing a fair bit of current from the battery or your tool shorted out on something metal. Not really anything else it could be. Unless maybe your battery is connected backwards?
I'm going to test both batteries with a multimeter within the next couple of days but if it was connected backwards I'm sure thete would be other signs of trouble?
Cable connection was solid. Battery shut off switch off/current not possible. There are a few wires running there and a connector may be somehow the wrench came close to something exposed, not sure if it could go through the air if close enough.
I assume I do not need to disconnect negative/ground before testing with multimeter.
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mountaintraveler
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11/13/23 12:23pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: How to handle RV house battery? / sparkles flying
The sparks definitely mean there was still a connection that goes outside or around the shutoff switch.
I can't think what that connection might be. Battery cut off switch shuts off things like propane detector and everything else connected to that battery set. Nothing inside the motorhome can be powered by DC from house battery with battery switch off.
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mountaintraveler
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11/13/23 12:13pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: How to handle RV house battery? / sparkles flying
Negative and ground mentioned above, I assume the same thing was meant, the wires that go to the negative terminals of the batteries
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mountaintraveler
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11/13/23 12:08pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: How to handle RV house battery? / sparkles flying
The sparks definitely mean there was still a connection that goes outside or around the shutoff switch. The sparks can happen if the cable is loose and the ring terminal is making intermittent contact such as when it slides down and skips off the threads of the battery post.
The cable was firmly attached to the terminal, I just wanted to tighten the nut even better
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mountaintraveler
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11/13/23 12:07pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Beware of Camping World!!!!
All my attempts to even contact Camping World, service or parts departments were a nightmare and I had seen such unprofessionalism that I could not believe it was in the United States. Not to mention mostly was quoted insane prices. Very often it was not possible to speak to anyone either, too busy, just message machine. I gave up on that business
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mountaintraveler
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11/13/23 11:58am |
Camping World Service and Installation
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RE: 24 feet versus 26' dilemma, have to decide fast
If I was a bit younger and much richer, I think I'd consider this - 19'8" long and AWD - probably install a bit taller tires on it for more ground clearance, though:
https://pleasureway.com/models/ontour20/
LOL 180K!
I grew up in a world where most roads were dirt (deep dirt, the kind that sinks army tanks) and camping was simple and inexpensive activity, in rough norther climate.
Look what they did to this now...And these are rapidly depreciating assets, costing as much as a house that is going to only appreciate (while one spends equal amount of money on regular maintenance)
They're going to force electric vehicles pretty soon, I'm sure, what's going to become of the value of these overpriced vans...when it'll be hard and very expensive to buy any fuel.
Class C and many class Bs are overbuilt and have too many "amenities" I have no use for. I don't need entertainment system/TV, on-board generator, 2nd sink, big bed, oven, multiple stove burners (need one), microwave, outside shower, dinette, can do without A/C and 6 gallon water heater (1 gal heater is fine with me, with 6 gal I just waste propane).
So it'd make sense to build something I want on my own, with own hands as they charge insane money for builds, or gut a small trailer to make more storage space. But I won't travel after this last big trip as want to settle into small farming life.
I don't need a generator except for emergency, my cheap solar panel meets all my needs. I have to run Onan on board generator every couple of weeks to avoid clogged carburetor, which gives me headache as I hate fumes, noise and have to set new altitude every time and my altitude switch is finicky, got to change to summer oil, have to worry about fuel varnishing and fuel quality for that expensive, picky generator - and I have to run electric heater outside, heating the forest to load that generator properly! I prefer my cheap 2nd carry-on dual fuel Pulsar generator, one kind of oil for all weather, and I only use propane - no fuel rot, no mess or smell, no exercising it. On-board Onan seems to require convoluted procedure to prepare it for storage, much more than draining the carbureator, so can't just keep it shut down.
Ann Cat ... since this is a Class C forum section ... what year/brand of Class C do you have?
My good old E450 based 2005 Itasca (Winnebago) 24 ft. Class C I bought new in 2006 came stock with all those "luxuries" that I guess you're saying you don't need. The DW and myself use them all when drycamping - whether drycamping in a campground or drycamping out on the far side of beyond.
We never drive through an entrance leading to the middle of nowhere without having first topped up our 55 gallon gasoline tank, which gives our built-in Onan genny plenty of run-time - in addition to what the V10 might need to get us back to civilization. I also carry along a portable genny along with it's own gas supply so as to provide coach battery charging backup - to either the Onan charging of the batteries (plus running all other electrical gadgets) or idling of the V10 to charge the batteries. I never adjust the Onan's altitude setting - just leave it on sea level all the time.
I maintain positive air pressure inside the coach whenever running either of the two generators or idling of the V10 - so as to use physics to absolutely keep out any/all fumes ... and it works like a champ.
It sure is nice to have inside or outside showers, perfect coach interior temperatures regardless of outside temps, plenty of refrigerator/freezer cubic footage, 3 stovetop burners if needed, an oven if needed, a large 12V fan with a long extension cord to blow on us when sitting outside under the awning in hot outside temps, a lounge chair for reading or watching of movies when not outside, large storage tanks, two queen size beds for complete sleeping comfort, 5 ways of recharging the coach batteries anytime anywhere (we don't have/need solar - yet) and higher-than-stock rough road clearance due to my use of tires with a larger diameter than what came stock on our Class C. All of this is supported via an overkill E450 chassis for added strength and durability that took me a long time to locate under a 24 ft. Class C ... which are usually built on only an E350 chassis.
The infuriating part is that all the above set us back only around $54K when we bought new back in the day. What a rip'off todays RV prices are!
My RV is 2012.
I don't need most of the overbloated stuff installed into it, especially this Onan generator which I intensely hate to run. All the junk only causes me worry it breaks before I resell the RV which I had purchased to do one long Western trip.
The Onan fumes are going to be all over outside the rv, and once you open the door to step out they will be in, I have to step out multiple times, can't be sitting in like a prisoner, to begin with I have to run electrical heater outsude to properlty load that crazy maddening genset to exercise it to 1/2 of capacity! Can't stand noise or vibration too. Can't stand sound of generators. Portable quiet propane genny which is cheap can be run far away on a long extension cord and does not need to be exercised.
I do not need to charge my batteries much, they last me forever plus there is solar option or I just drive some. I hardly ever run furnace, I just travel following nice weather.
I do not need a shower, I use 1 gal bucket baths for 2-3 weeks until I shower in the gym. Outside shower is just extra freezing hazard
Do not need microwave, sound system, TV, do not need 6 gal water heater, ducted furnace, ceiling fans, 2nd sink, oven, 4 burner stove, wooden cabinets, queen bed. That's not my lifestyle and I am camping. I don't stay in rv parks.
The only useful thing is flush toilet, that's the real reason I went with class C and not a van. Also like big storage capacity. Fridge and air heater I can install it myself or hire someone to install into anything. Would want lots of solar and my cheap portable genny that runs off propane hooked to portable tanks, not the RV big onboard tank which got expensive valves, can be easily damaged by propane place overfilling it and you will be looking into over 1k to replace it. Lots of expensive junk installed to milk money out of people, whole industry is a scam.
Class C frame got high clearance I don't understand why they did not use the clearance and stuffed the bottom with features, may be the tall height requires balancing or something
I like Bob Wells CheapRVLiving approach better and if I was doing it all over again and looking for something long term, not a one big trip thing, I would go with cargo trailer option with high clearance truck and may be even install flush toilet and tanks into it. I just did not have time or space for conversion since I lived while traveling in short term rentals all over when I bought the RV. I'm moving overseas soon, will not be changing the rig, I'm fine with what I got for the puposes of my trip.
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mountaintraveler
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11/13/23 10:53am |
Class C Motorhomes
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How to handle RV house battery? / sparkles flying
Hello. I'm trying to understand why I got fireworks of sparkles while trying to tighten the terminal nut on the house battery.
I shut off battery switch, then opened the compartment to check on the batteries, disconnected, cleaned and reconnected one negative terminal, which was loose and dirty.
I was standing on rubber type mat and wearing non-conductive gloves.
Next, I tried to tighten positive terminal on that battery, without disconnecting it. I used a ratchet wrench, its handle was not touching anything exposed metal. Suddenly lots of big sparkles flew from positive terminal.
I left it alone and turned on battery switch, things seem to be still working and battery gauge still showing the same charge as before.
What can be the cause of it?
On my car, I usually tighten both terminals while they are still connected with no issues, wearing non conductive gloves.
I guess best to disconnect negative terminals on both of my house batteries before even touching positve terminals?
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mountaintraveler
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11/13/23 09:45am |
Tech Issues
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RE: 24 feet versus 26' dilemma, have to decide fast
I had run it from sea level to around 8000ft. My manual says that running it with higher altitude setting at low altitude will damage the generator. Not sure about the other way, but its supposed to sputter, surge, run poorly if altitude is high and isn't set in the generator. May be its not noticeable with newer generator in top shape.
This is how the above works. Your generator needs a mixture of fuel and air in the correct ratio of air to fuel to work properly (14.7 parts of air to 1 part of fuel is correct).
Say you set that mixture at sea level. Now when you go up to 8,000 feet there is less air. So if you make no changes then you might have 8 parts of air to 1 part of fuel. (that ratio is completely made up but the point is still valid). There ratio has too much fuel and not enough air. That is known as a rich condition which can cause sputter surge and loss of power. But it doesn't destroy the engine.
However, if you are at 8,000 feet elevation and you set your generator correctly so it has a 14:1 ratio everything is fine and your generator is happy. But when you go back to sea level there is a whole bunch more air. So you might now have a ratio of 20:1 (20 parts of air to each part of fuel) That is known as a lean condition and is very bad. When an engine is running lean it is running hot and can destroy itself in a short amount of time.
The altitude adjustment knob (plastic) is actually missing, the way I bought it, and I use pliers to set altitude as the dial markings and the metal knob housing are intact, per advice from Cummings tech support and they said altitude settings are very approximate. The whole design is ridiculous as they do not sell replacement knobs and require expensive carbureator replacement if this piece of plasic falls off, while all it would take is to seat the plastic back into its housing. To me it all is expensive scam and I'm looking forward to life free of gas or diesel generators once I sell.
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mountaintraveler
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09/17/23 10:45pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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